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UPS makes it Christmas every week!


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#91 Kurb

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:15 PM

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#92 Big A

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:21 PM

yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip! yip!


little dog, that's all I hear.

I used to install that stuff all the time, now I just do it part time when I pick up the odd jobs in my spare time during the winter, the sealants actually come off the stone first because they are usually slightly raised surface to the grout, slight raise = more wear, so as long as you seal usually once a year you are good(for natural stone), so thats strike 1.

Sanded grout is a type of finish for grout, not a type of grout itself, all that is added is (shocker here) SAND to the mixture to add a bit of texture to it, otherwise there is no difference at all compared to other products or negatives other then the sanded ground isnt very good for those really tight 1/16 fits, and that's it strike 2.


no moisture barrier is required between tile and plywood, they have a latex additive that you can use with the mortar that acts as the barrier itself when you do the install, wouldn't use it that way on drywall, on that we use green board, but thats only for showers and bathrooms where a lot of moisture can get on the walls so thats strike 3.

That's 3 strikes now, so can you please GTFO


1. A clean person trying to scrub everything clean from grout will usually wear it out there first, so not as noticeable as when the tile chips, but even you are furthering the big point, sealant almost always fails. So thanks for agreeing

2. I said "he probably used" sanded grout, which meant to say he probably used the wrong ground for that size joint, once again agreeing with me since you have some reading comprehension issues.

3. Although moisture barrier is required, this is a tiny expense that any reputable installer would do, As you pointed out earlier, sealant will fail, it's a travertine of limestone super porous stone counter with 10 times the grout lines as opposed to a 12x12 tile. So yes, while not code, while not absolutely required, did you notice the particle board cabinets? So you have a super porous stone tile, 10 times the grout lines, and a cheap cabinet that will fall apart even with one time of wetting. Not necessary, but the $5 of tar paper and 10 minutes extra work would be done by anyone reputable! I used those same cheap cabinets in my apartments and one leak under the sink expands the particle board and causes it to warp and fail.

Now you're just arguing to argue and anything I say is going to be wrong so whatevs!

#93 Big A

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:22 PM

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#94 Porn Shop Clerk

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:22 PM

anyone else notice everything alice (claims he) owns looks like it was stolen from the set of Saved by the Bell?

 

pink shoes, man purse, (seriously, that is the most unprofessional briefcase i've ever seen), his ugly ass shirts, and even those countertops look like they're from 1993.

 

in fact i'm pretty sure this is exactly how alice envisions himself in his mind's eye:

 

zach-morris-phone.jpg?w=300&h=0&zc=1&s=0

 

when really he's more like this:

 

screech_lgl.jpg



#95 Porn Shop Clerk

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:24 PM

lol wrong on all counts. but i guess its no surprise that a pastry-huffing milquetoast such as yourself has never learned a physical laboring skill in his entire life and has to resort to parroting stuff a contractor with dollar signs in his eyes said to make an incredibly easy sale

 

its all becoming so very apparent now



#96 Floppin

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:27 PM

Alice, he put down fuging concrete tile backer board of which all brands are moisture resistant and some even completely water proof. That's more than enough moisture barrier for a fuging kitchen counter top. Unless he literally floods his entire kitchen, he's not going to get moisture damage into his cabinets. 



#97 Mother Grabber

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:30 PM

i believe the correct term is satchel

 

 

 

 

indiana jones has a satchel

 

ironically, Indiana Jones is more of a real man than Pat.



#98 Porn Shop Clerk

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:30 PM

Alice, he put down fuging concrete tile backer board of which all brands are moisture resistant and some even completely water proof. That's more than enough moisture barrier for a fuging kitchen counter top. Unless he literally floods his entire kitchen, he's not going to get moisture damage into his cabinets. 

 

we're talking about someone that has feces all over their counter top.   his parents probably had to install floor drains in every room just so they could pay a biohaz team to go in and hose the entire house down once a week.

 

the fat fug is literally so greasy you wouldn't even have to lube his buttcheeks up before you slid a fat cock in his ass

 

fuging ned beaty looking fuger



#99 PhillyB

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:36 PM

here's the custom bar i'm building in my den/man cave. it's not done but i'm getting pretty close

 

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#100 Porn Shop Clerk

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:42 PM

alice's bar is made out of centuries old cypress logs pull out of the swamp that is his ass



#101 Doc Holiday

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:45 PM

1. A clean person trying to scrub everything clean from grout will usually wear it out there first, so not as noticeable as when the tile chips, but even you are furthering the big point, sealant almost always fails. So thanks for agreeing

2. I said "he probably used" sanded grout, which meant to say he probably used the wrong ground for that size joint, once again agreeing with me since you have some reading comprehension issues.

3. Although moisture barrier is required, this is a tiny expense that any reputable installer would do, As you pointed out earlier, sealant will fail, it's a travertine of limestone super porous stone counter with 10 times the grout lines as opposed to a 12x12 tile. So yes, while not code, while not absolutely required, did you notice the particle board cabinets? So you have a super porous stone tile, 10 times the grout lines, and a cheap cabinet that will fall apart even with one time of wetting. Not necessary, but the $5 of tar paper and 10 minutes extra work would be done by anyone reputable! I used those same cheap cabinets in my apartments and one leak under the sink expands the particle board and causes it to warp and fail.

Now you're just arguing to argue and anything I say is going to be wrong so whatevs!

Tar paper for tile grout? GTFO before you look more dumb(if that's even possible at this point), I mean that's just fuging out there dumb, if a "con"tractor told you that you got ripped off, the latex additive that I talked about is what people use, it cost an extra $30 per 50sq but does the trick.

 

I've never once heard or have ever seen someone use anything like tar paper in any kind of tile work, it's never happened, not once not ever.

 

go to Lowes right now and ask them about it, please go I'm begging because you will not fuging find it, because it doesn't fuging exist.

 

As far as the other two issues, nice attempt at a back track buddy but I can already tell his gaps on the tiles are at least 1/8 because if you know what the 1/16 looks like you would know the difference right away, so sanded grout would have worked fine. and your other point is a sad excuse for an excuse.



#102 Doc Holiday

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:54 PM

Alice, he put down fuging concrete tile backer board of which all brands are moisture resistant and some even completely water proof. That's more than enough moisture barrier for a fuging kitchen counter top. Unless he literally floods his entire kitchen, he's not going to get moisture damage into his cabinets. 

Yep, and for a counter top I'd say it's a little over the top but will work.

 

Concrete board, or green board as what we call it, is usually only used as a substitute for drywall in bathroom tile jobs or other places you expect high moisture, for shower areas you also have to seal it first before you tile.



#103 Floppin

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:57 PM

Yep, and for a counter top I'd say it's a little over the top but will work.

 

Concrete board, or green board as what we call it, is usually only used as a substitute for drywall in bathroom tile jobs or other places you expect high moisture, for shower areas you also have to seal it first before you tile.

 

Yeah, green board is an industry term. I didn't want to confuse his fatass. And yes, it's primarily used only in high moisture areas...IE in a shower/tub you would run it up to tile height, or the entire enclosure if necessary. It's sure as poo not standard on counter tops though. But yeah, you just seal it with a latex filler thin set. In shower bottoms you build an entire "pan" with rubber membrane, latex filler concrete thinset and then tile over top. 



#104 88 Bronco

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 05:59 PM

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#105 Porn Shop Clerk

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Posted 28 June 2013 - 06:00 PM

dude he totally bought a nautilus to maintain that physique, can't you tell?




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