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Don't do demo

toldozer

By toldozer,
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LinvilleGorge Grand Master

LinvilleGorge

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Demo is relatively easy with the right tools. Primarily pry bars of various sizes and shapes. Flat ones are key. Get stuff started with those them you can break out the bigger ones but it's tough to get stuff started with the bigger ones.

Most people just try to go to work with a sledgehammer and a crowbar and yeah, that sucks. 😂

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toldozer Veteran

toldozer

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1 hour ago, LinvilleGorge said:

Demo is relatively easy with the right tools. Primarily pry bars of various sizes and shapes. Flat ones are key. Get stuff started with those them you can break out the bigger ones but it's tough to get stuff started with the bigger ones.

Most people just try to go to work with a sledgehammer and a crowbar and yeah, that sucks. 😂

I have a couple pry bars and hammers. Not near enough equipment.  I'm sure they'll come in and finish what's left in an hour or two. I worked for about 6 and got like 25% of the kitchen done. Sore as a mofo too. Physical labor ain't for me lol.

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toldozer Veteran

toldozer

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1 hour ago, jayboogieman said:

My farmhouse was built in 32 or 33. They didn't do stuff like that in it.

Well good for you lol. We Have tongue and groove paneling wrapping basically the whole kitchen. Every individual piece is nailed in place with 6 3inch nails. We were trying to save a good bit of it to wrap the new island and vent hood. I'm hoping the contractor can salvage the rest better than me

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Anybodyhome Grand Master

Anybodyhome

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12 hours ago, toldozer said:

Well good for you lol. We Have tongue and groove paneling wrapping basically the whole kitchen. Every individual piece is nailed in place with 6 3inch nails. We were trying to save a good bit of it to wrap the new island and vent hood. I'm hoping the contractor can salvage the rest better than me

That's not demo; that's called salvage and takes a lot more time and patience. You'll spend 75% of the time finding out how things were originally built and installed so you can reverse the process to get it out without too much damage.

Until I got into my 60s I did all that stuff myself and I enjoy it. Now, the hard part is conveying to whomever I hire exactly what I'm trying to accomplish and how I want to get there.

The thing about your T&G paneling is you can usually flip it over and use the other side if what you've been looking at up til now is too badly damaged or the stain sucks, or whatever. Also, the nail holes will be smaller on the back side of the paneling versus the front.

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Floppin Grand Master

Floppin

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13 minutes ago, Anybodyhome said:

That's not demo; that's called salvage and takes a lot more time and patience. You'll spend 75% of the time finding out how things were originally built and installed so you can reverse the process to get it out without too much damage.

Until I got into my 60s I did all that stuff myself and I enjoy it. Now, the hard part is conveying to whomever I hire exactly what I'm trying to accomplish and how I want to get there.

The thing about your T&G paneling is you can usually flip it over and use the other side if what you've been looking at up til now is too badly damaged or the stain sucks, or whatever. Also, the nail holes will be smaller on the back side of the paneling versus the front.

This isn't really true, especially if it was installed correctly to begin with. The nails will angled through the tongue so they aren't visible from the front but will have blown out the back visibly and also almost always only one side of T&G has a beveled edge. (although some brands of T&G have a beveled panel side and the reverse will be Beadboard)

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Anybodyhome Grand Master

Anybodyhome

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4 minutes ago, Floppin said:

This isn't really true, especially if it was installed correctly to begin with. The nails will angled through the tongue so they aren't visible from the front but will have blown out the back visibly and also almost always only one side of T&G has a beveled edge. (although some brands of T&G have a beveled panel side and the reverse will be Beadboard)

If you're talking about the newer, cheap 3/16" crap sold at Lowe's; but the better quality 3/8" or 5/16" will stand up a lot better. And I'd be willing to bet that blind nailing the thin stuff as you suggest will do more damage than anything else. Especially if it was a 3" nail as Toldozer said.

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Floppin Grand Master

Floppin

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9 minutes ago, Anybodyhome said:

If you're talking about the newer, cheap 3/16" crap sold at Lowe's; but the better quality 3/8" or 5/16" will stand up a lot better. And I'd be willing to bet that blind nailing the thin stuff as you suggest will do more damage than anything else. Especially if it was a 3" nail as Toldozer said.

No, just talking about T&G in general, old and new. It's very rare that the backside is usable. I've been a contractor for almost 25 years and have been swinging a hammer since I was 12 working summers for my dad. No matter the age of the T&G in question only side will have a bevel about 95% of the time, with the otherside being square edged and rough finished. So unless you plan on taking a router and sander to them to refinish them entirely it's just not something that can typically be done with good results. That's not even taking into the account that what you said about nail holes being smaller on the back typically not being accurate. Air nailed or hand nailed, you will have lots of splinters and blow outs on the backside of a nail hole that will look like absolute poo when turned around, especially if they were hand nailed with 10d nails like he's describing.

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Floppin Grand Master

Floppin

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16 minutes ago, Anybodyhome said:

If you're talking about the newer, cheap 3/16" crap sold at Lowe's; but the better quality 3/8" or 5/16" will stand up a lot better. And I'd be willing to bet that blind nailing the thin stuff as you suggest will do more damage than anything else. Especially if it was a 3" nail as Toldozer said.

Also no, I'm talking about 3/4" T&G, which is what almost all T&G paneling has been since forever.

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