Riding Lawn Mowers

[RealBitsOfPanther]

Just moved into our new house that sits on an acre of land. Any recommendations on a fairly inexpensive riding lawn mower? What are some things I should look for when shopping around? 

[Johnny Rockets]

Congrats on the new home.....I bought a 48" 24-HP Husqvarna from Lowe's (about $1,850 I believe) almost 3 years ago right around Memorial day when they had free delivery and it came with a free pull cart. Going into my 3rd cutting season with no regrets about the mower itself. It's fast and does the job well. 

I didn't get a John Deere because I have heard that in order to work on it you have to go through John Deere. Not sure how accurate that is, but just what I heard. 

I recommend a mulching kit on the mower instead of the side discharge. Inexpensive and easy to change out. Keeps a much cleaner yard if that is important to you and don't want the hassle of a bagger.

The only regret I have is that sometimes I wish I bought a zero turn instead for $750-$1,000 more. I have almost 2 acres and the riding mower cuts it just fine and in a bit over an hour but a zero turn just covers so much more area. 

I suggest doing some research online and reading pros and cons of each brand. If you happen to buy from Lowes go on Ebay and buy a 10% off coupon for .99 cents. Double check that they are good for mowers but it could save you a couple hundred bucks. 

[Bronn]

We got the cheap Troy Bilt Pony at Lowes. just over $1000.

Any small engine powered 42" cut mower you find on the market is probably going to be pretty much the same.

If you take care of it (ie. don't let it winter with a full tank of gas, don't hit rocks or roots with the blades, etc.) it should last 10 years or more.

We have just over an acre and have used it one full season. No problems so far. 

[Davidson Deac II]

2 hours ago, Bronn said:

We got the cheap Troy Bilt Pony at Lowes. just over $1000.

Any small engine powered 42" cut mower you find on the market is probably going to be pretty much the same.

If you take care of it (ie. don't let it winter with a full tank of gas, don't hit rocks or roots with the blades, etc.) it should last 10 years or more.

We have just over an acre and have used it one full season. No problems so far. 

I have the same thing.  But I can't imagine doing an acre of land with it.  I have just under half an acre, it it takes a long while to finish.  Of course, its not flat, and has a lot of trees to work around.  As well as a steep incline in one part that has to be push mowed.  :)

[SmokinwithWilly]

I own several commercial grade mowers but I look at pretty much the same thing all the way around. Here's how I shop.

1. Figure out exactly what you need the mower to do. Every mower has an hour breakdown for how long it takes to mow in ideal conditions. Cut that by 25% normally because you're not always cutting in 65 degrees on perfectly smooth dry lawn.

2. Check the motor. I won't own anything with a Briggs and Stratton engine. I usually buy Kawasaki or Honda motors. I have had the least trouble from them and they run the longest. Also, don't buy just enough HP to do the job. Go up one size if you can afford to do it. It will make a huge difference in how your mower cuts and performs. I try to get the biggest motor I can on any mower I buy because of the amount of use and I don't want the engine bogging down when it actually has to put in a little more effort.

3. Ignore the pretty colors and get inside to the frame. You don't want a cheaply built frame because it's just going to twist and then you're screwed. Also, check the gauge on the metal it's built with. The thicker the metal the better it's going to wear over time. 

4. Check how easy it is to replace the simple stuff like belts and blades. I had a mower that it took almost 2 hours to get the belt off because I had to disassemble almost the entire machine to get access. Also check under the hood and see how easy it is to get to spark plugs, oil filters, electrical etc. Most of the replacement parts are easy enough to do yourself, but repair shops will charge you a small fortune. 

5. Zero turns are great, but they come with a huge catch, hydraulic pumps. If you have to replace one, you're probably looking at about a grand, and usually, you're better off to replace both at the same time. So if you're buying a 2k machine, if one pump goes, you might as well buy a brand new machine because the other isn't far behind. 

6. Go to repair shops and see which mowers they won't work on or recommend. All of them have certain flaws, but some flaws are more expensive than others. 

7. Check with commercial dealers. Sometimes you can get a demo mower or end of the year model closeout for cheaper than you would think. They can ship in from other areas of the country so you might be able to get a deal out of Louisiana that you can't get in NC but you won't know it unless you ask. Plus, usually they ship for free.  

8. Check out the cost of belts, blades and tires. Tires for my truck are cheaper than the ones for my mowers. A cheaper mower may cost more in the long run because the basic parts can be so much more expensive. 

9. Decide if you are going to mulch or side chute. Mulching is great, but you can only mulch 1/3 the height of the grass effectively without clumping. I generally won't mulch anything that I have to take more than 2 inches off. It doesn't cut small enough and ends up leaving a ton of thatch. If you aren't going to stay on it constantly, you're better off sidechuting or bagging. 

10. Don't skimp on the seat. If you're going to be on it for any length of time, get a good seat. Being in an awkward position or uncomfortable can make a 2 hour job seem like forever. 

Lastly, always have an extra set of blades and use non-ethanol fuel. Regular gas will eat up your carburetor and injectors costing you a small fortune. Hope this helps. 

[Paa Langfart]

17 hours ago, SmokinwithWilly said:

use non-ethanol fuel

Most important tip in this thread right here.

[Johnny Rockets]

Most important tip in this thread right here.

That was good info. I was not aware.


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[thefuzz]

I normally buy used on CL that someone didn't want to or know how to work on....fix them up use them for a few years, and give it away or trash it once it's completely gone.

[Doyle]

I mowed our yard as a kid with one of these old snappers.  They would run for 20 years easily.   

[RealBitsOfPanther]

Thanks for the input guys. The wife and I went and looked at some at lowes. There's a couple that caught our eye. Is a hydrostatic transmission a necessary thing? My lot is pretty flat


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[PandaPancake]

Whatever you go with if it's going to be tougher than your average grass go with these blades:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gator+blades

[Paa Langfart]

23 hours ago, RealBitsOfPanther said:

Thanks for the input guys. The wife and I went and looked at some at lowes. There's a couple that caught our eye. Is a hydrostatic transmission a necessary thing? My lot is pretty flat


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I have never had one on either a lawn tractor or a farm tractor.  But I hear they are nice to have - but I have also heard they can present problems.  Read more here

 

https://blog.lawneq.com/which-riding-mower-transmission-is-right-for-you/

[Jangler]

[Bronn]

On 4/7/2017 at 5:52 PM, Davidson Deac II said:

I have the same thing.  But I can't imagine doing an acre of land with it.  I have just under half an acre, it it takes a long while to finish.  Of course, its not flat, and has a lot of trees to work around.  As well as a steep incline in one part that has to be push mowed.  :)

Yeah I only do the majority of our front/back yard with it. Our whole lot slopes pretty good from front to back, so I have to do our ditch bank with a push mower/weedeater.

But overall, we're happy with the Troy Bilt for the rest of the yard. It is cheaply made (you get what you pay for) but looks to be durable enough so far.